ISABELLA Bruvel-Santone's slow-fashion label, Bruvel, has been influenced by her heritage and her lifestyle.
Her made-to-measure shorts and pants are chic (think soft Italian leather) and practical, and found in Newcastle stores The Lair and Yardsale, and online.
"Shorts are my favourite thing to wear. The climate is so hot and I ride my bike everywhere, so dresses and skirts have slowly faded out of my wardrobe - they just aren't practical," the 28-year-old says.
"My Dad has been such a big style inspiration for me, and I do like a more of a masculine edge when dressing."
Ms Bruvel-Santone uses a vintage Consew machine in a space in the warehouse of her partner Jared Lawlor, owner of Herb Urban.
Born in Newcastle, she moved to France at six before returning as a teen (her late maternal grandfather was French, her paternal grandfather is Italian). Her mother embroidered and her father's appreciation of fashion nurtured her own.
"Dad has the most amazing collection of vintage clothing...He bought pieces travelling around Europe had a very interesting and classy way of dressing."
After school, Ms Bruvel-Santone began and dropped out of a business degree, started a jewellery brand and by 2018 was studying fashion design and technology at Tighes Hill TAFE.
"I always had an urge to be part of the fashion industry or of making my own little realm of creation within it, however the thought of adding another fashion brand to the world eventually started to give me the 'ick' as the overconsumption of clothing and its impact on our environment has brought some concerning facts to our attention," she says.
She began to make pants and shorts and landed a job in fashion production at The Lair.
With a growth in the visibility of smaller brands, she felt more freedom to create one that fit with her values.
"I decided to focus on pants and shorts as they are my personal favourite item of clothing and I like the idea of honing my skills into one thing and learning and getting really good at making as perfect a pant/short as possible rather than diluting my vision and energy with multiple types of clothing," she says.
As a sole creative, she focuses on one style of shorts (Milou) and pants (Claude), using different types of soft leather sourced from Italy and fabric remnants, sourced from the rag trade area of Surry Hills.
"I have customers ranging from 18-70 and as I make everything to order, I am not limited to 'standard' sizing, and can adjust the pattern to fit multiple body types," she says.
"I really enjoy working with someone to make a pair of pants that fits them perfectly, it can take multiple fittings to get it right but it's so satisfying in the end to see someone walk out of the studio with a pair of pants or shorts that fit them comfortably in all the ways they want."
Bruvel products are not priced to match cheaper fast-fashion items. They are a labour of love, made over many hours, and made to last.
"My market is those who appreciate something that is handcrafted and made locally," she says.
"Fabric wears out eventually, no matter how well it is made, but if you buy from someone who has hand-crafted your item, that person can make a repair. If you buy from big labels, there is no sense of community," she says.
Ms Bruvel-Santone is collecting vintage fabrics in view of future ranges, hoping also to begin a men's range, calling it Santone, after her father's side of the family.
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