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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
Lifestyle

Complementary worlds collide

Hedi Slimane's olfactory journal comes to life through Celine Haute Parfumerie collection.

With the realisation of clothing and perfumes sharing the same vision, Hedi Slimane also has been fashioning the latter after his appointment as Celine's creative director in 2018.

The following year saw the launch of Celine Haute Parfumerie, which has grown into a collection of 11 fragrances linked by a powdery note and signed by emblematic notes from the 60s and 70s, particularly tree moss, iris, rose or a chypre accord.

The series comprises of eight day fragrances and three nighttime counterparts, with each scent portraying a chapter of Slimane's olfactory journal.

Born in France's capital, he recalls memories of his 20s in Dans Paris and Saint-Germain-des-Prés day perfumes.

For the 11th chapter, Slimane reminisces a visit to London for the latest Bois Dormant.

"At 19, I used to stride around London looking for second-hand skinny suits from Savile Row. In the end, I had to resolve myself to becoming both a couturier and a tailor," Slimane said.

An evocation of how clothes contribute to youth's self-awareness, the desire for a first jacket, and establishing a feel-good identity also led to the creation of the delicate woody fragrance underscored by powdery cologne accents.

"By creating Bois Dormant, I wanted a perfume that evokes the luxurious yet understated and classic architecture of my double-breasted blazers in English flannel," he explained. "I also had the idea of an audiophile dimension of accords, of suave and velvety tonalities. Like a first-edition vinyl record, Bois Dormant had to have a warm and enveloping patina, an acoustic kind of authenticity."

Combining powdery accents with white orris butter conjures the fabric's luxurious and comfortable feel while extending the woody structure provided by cedar and vetiver. With lightness and fluidity, the discreet cologne is underpinned by bergamot and juniper for a delicately bitter touch.

Delicate woody Bois Dormant Eau de Parfum.

The composition establishes its presence by an elegant and comforting sillage that gives the sense of "dress" and "fit" to a perfume.

Bois Dormant is the daytime pairing to Black Tie, which reflects on Slimane's obsession for a black and tailored silhouette.

The creative director associated the design of the packaging with the history of the couture house founded by Céline Vipiana in 1945.

The top of the faceted black lacquered cap features an engraving of the "Triomphe", which has been the maison's emblem since 1971. The logo has her first initial doubled within the links that encircle the Arc de Triomphe.

The box is adorned with a "grain de poudre" feel and embossing that recreates the effect of the "Grand Siècle" mouldings inspired by wood panelling of the Celine ateliers at Hôtel Colbert de Torcy at 16 Rue Vivienne in Paris.

The Art-deco style rectangular bottle is designed in keeping with the great tradition of French glassmaking, and decorated on two sides with sharp-edged fluting. Through fine workmanship, the spare, exact lines of transparent glass reveal amber-gold reflections that highlight the nuances of Bois Dormant.

Celine Haute Parfumerie collection is available at the Celine boutique in Iconsiam.

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