Chronographs are nothing new. In fact, this super-accurate piece of precision engineering was invented back in 1816 by French watch-maker Louis Moinet for working together with astrological equipment, while it was first marketed as a wearable chronograph in 1821 by Nicolas Mathieu Rieussec.
His boss, King Louis XVIII, commissioned him to create a timepiece the monarch could use to record the lap time of his horse races. And it wasn’t long before this new technology was refined further and mass-produced for use by the military to time artillery strikes and sportspeople to record personal bests.
But at this point, chronograph functionality was still encased in clunky boxes rather than wrapped elegantly around wrists. It wasn’t until 1913 when Swiss maker Longines developed one of the earliest wearable chronographs, followed by Breitling and the best of the rest (Patek Philippe; Omega; Rolex; Tag Heuer; and Zenith, among others).
Then, it became a firm favourite with old-school Hollywood heavyweights such as Steve McQueen and Paul Newman, who helped raised its status, while more recently modern-day superstars like Bradley Cooper and Dwayne ‘The Rock’ Johnson have sustained its profile. Lewis Hamilton, always fashion-forward, is also a big fan.
You can spot a chronograph fairly easily: two or three sub-dials are usually displayed on the main dial in a harmonious arrangement featuring an independent sweep second hand. It can be started and stopped, as well as returned to zero, via two pushers without interfering with the traditional watch element. Clever, right?
While function certainly trumped form for the first iterations of chronographs, aesthetics have finally caught up with practicalities, meaning there’s a style to suit every taste, sportsperson or otherwise.
“Chronograph watches have maintained enduring popularity due to their timeless appeal, versatile functionality and the craftsmanship associated with them,” Zoe Nicholls, senior PR manager at Rotary Watches, explains. “In recent years, they have evolved in several ways to cater to modern demands while preserving their classic essence. At Rotary Watches, we have enhanced design elements to accommodate contemporary tastes, as well as paying careful attention to improving the quality of our chronographs via the use of high-grade materials.”
From dressy to sporty, we round up the best-looking and most-accurate chronographs out there, sure to help with punctuality and panache in equal measure.
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Rotary Regent Chronograph
Founded by Moise Dreyfuss in Switzerland back in 1895, Rotary have become renowned for creating quality watches that offer excellent value for money, and their Regent Chronograph at just over £300 is an excellent case in point.
It features a multi-faceted brushed stainless-steel case and tapered h-link bracelet with a blue dial incorporating its namesake chronograph function, luminous hour markers and date window.
While it packs all the technology required of a professional sportsperson, we love the fact you can dress this up or down, making it a flexible yet fabulous choice.
Buy now £329.00, Rotary
Tommy Hilfiger Men’s Stainless Steel Bracelet Watch
At the budget end of the scale, but offering plenty of bang for your buck, is this chronograph by classic all-American brand Tommy Hilfiger. At just shy of £200, it’s an elegant watch to see you through the everyday, featuring chrono tech – three dials? Check! Two pushers? Check! – plus a classic blue face emblazoned with the signature Tommy flag and encircled by a 44mm stainless-steel case with coordinating bracelet. Entry-level excellence.
Buy now £189.00, H. Samuel
Boss GQ 2023 Taper Chronograph Quartz Men’s Watch
In a sea of silver bracelets and blue faces, this chunky chronograph from German fashion label Boss certainly stands out from the crowd, featuring a black stainless-steel bracelet and face with a chrome dial and sub-dials, finished with a chunky deployment buckle. A perfect combination of form and function; no wonder it was the official watch for GQ Men of the Year 2023. ‘Sleb appeal, guaranteed.
Buy now £399.00, Beaverbrooks
Calvin Klein Men’s Black IP Bracelet Watch
This black beauty might look like it’s a seriously slick model from an esteemed Swiss watchmaker, but it’s actually a pocket-friendly chronograph from none other than Calvin Klein, the fashion label from the US. A modern take on the traditional style, it’s an industrial-inspired number comprising a 44mm stainless-steel case that frames a jet-black face accented with three chronograph dials. A three-link bracelet in matching black wraps up a pretty decent little package.
Buy now £229.00, H. Samuel
Bremont WR-45 Williams Racing Chronograph
Small but perfectly-formed British watchmaker Bremont – which takes its inspiration from the aviation industry – have introduced the WR-45 in partnership with F1 team Williams Racing (for whom Bremont is an official timing partner).
Hand-assembled to order, and limited to just 244 pieces, it’s a sleek timepiece for sportier gents. The 43mm chronograph features a brand-new case design, black metal dial with 1970s-inspired hands, red chronograph seconds hand and three sub-dials painted in the main colours of the Williams livery.
The strap, meanwhile, is crafted from black Alcantara, the material traditionally used for the steering reels of racing cars. A very nice touch indeed.
Buy now £5795.00, Goldsmiths
Bell & Ross BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze Limited Edition Automatic Chronograph
French watchmaker Bell & Ross know a thing or two about covetable chronographs and their limited-edition timepiece is proof. Looks-wise, black and bronze come together to spectacular effect in a statement strap, dial and case, the latter specially developed to prevent oxidisation. It’s powered by the brand’s BR-CAL.301 chronograph calibre and features two sub-dials presented behind scratch-proof sapphire glass crystal. A proper investment piece.
Buy now £4900.00, Mr Porter
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
Inspired by sailing’s natural affinity with motorsports, and its relentless passion for speed and precision, the new Carrera Skipper by TAG Heuer is a fitting tribute to the Swiss brand’s heritage. It’s certainly distinctive, with a dual-counter dial in a palette of blues, orange, green and teal, together with a Carrera steel case featuring a cut-down indicator that’s water-resistant up to 100m. The durable new blue textile strap is the cherry on top.
Buy now £5900.00, Goldsmiths
Christopher Ward C65 Chrono
While premium British brand Christopher Ward may not have the heritage of other watchmakers – founded more recently than many competitors in 2004 – they certainly make up for it with authentic retro aesthetics.
Take the C65 Chrono, featuring a classic bright-blue dial that’s straight out of the late 1960s, teamed with contemporary technology engineered for the demands of today. While it would be as home in a yacht club as it would on the water, it’s designed first and foremost as a serious diver’s watch, equipped with chronograph functionality and screw-down pushers and crown, not to mention being water-resistant up to 150m. Twin sub-dials add to the chronograph element while extra timing options come in the shape of a unidirectional bezel and tachymeter around the circumference.
Style beneath a crisp cuff by night and team with a diver’s tan by day.
Buy now £1520.00, Christopher Ward
Swatch SUSS100 On Your Mark
Now this is a bit of fun – as you’d expect from playful Swiss maker Swatch. In a look-at-me colourway of blue and yellow, the On Your Mark does away with unnecessary complexities in favour of a pared-back design comprising a silicon strap and plastic case featuring a dial and three sub-dials. For creative types.
Buy now £110.00, Swatch
Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional
Arguably one of the most iconic chronographs in existence, the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional – part of six moon landings – is for adventurous classicists. Presented on a polished brushed stainless-steel bracelet, the 42mm asymmetrical case features sapphire crystal glass, black-step dial and anodised aluminium bezel ring. The whole thing is driven by the Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 3861, which powers the small seconds sub-dial, 30-minute recorder and 12-hour recorder, plus the central chronograph function. One for seriously chic geeks.
Buy now £7400.00, Goldsmiths
Hublot Big Bang Unico Titanium Rainbow
Got a spare £60k knocking about? Then you could do worse than to invest your money into this Pride-ready masterpiece by big-boy watchmaker Hublot. Billed as the Big Bang Unico Titanium Rainbow, it combines bling looks with powerful tech to appeal to those who care as much about appearance as performance, featuring incredible timekeeping with calibre movement and small chronographs. The rainbow effect is created via the use of precious stones, including rubies and sapphires, paired with multicoloured numerals and strap. You might want to store it in a safe.
Buy now £59900.00, Goldsmiths
Patek Philippe Complications 42mm Blue Dial Annual Calendar Flyback Chronograph Watch
Luxury doesn’t get more, er, luxurious than this covetable chronograph from none other than Patek Philippe.
The famed Swiss watchmaker has truly knocked it out of the park with an 18-carat rose-gold 42mm case and bezel set on a slick blue alligator-leather strap and featuring a matching sunburst dial with golden hands, hour markers and annual calendar.
Eye-watching price? Perhaps. Would if you could? Absolutely.
Buy now £60480.00, Mappin & Webb
