You could almost hear the cries of dismay when it was announced that St John restaurant in London’s Smithfield, a Wallpaper* favourite and helmed by owner and previous guest editor Fergus Henderson, is closing for a well-deserved refit. Henderson, of course, is the English chef whose ‘nose-to-tail’ eating philosophy made chefs and diners everywhere realise that every part of an animal is equally worthy of respect.
The cries, though, have now been replaced with sighs of relief as Henderson has said that, in the meantime, the original London restaurant’s tables, chairs, tablecloths, et al would be relocating for a temporary residency at the legendary Fortnum & Mason department store on Piccadilly for three weeks, beginning 6 February 2024. Die-hard fans can also choose to frequent the restaurant’s other city outposts: Bread & Wine in Spitalfields, and St John Marylebone.
