Why the humble hispi cabbage is the new cauliflower steak

Paprika lentils with grilled hispi cabbage from food writer Joe Woodhouse's book More Daily Veg. Photograph: Courtesy of Joe Woodhouse

For decades its overcooked smell has haunted school corridors, but now cabbage is becoming the must-order dish on the menus of Britain’s coolest restaurants.

At Angela Hartnett’s Michelin-starred London restaurant Murano, hispi cabbage is lightly charred for added smokiness, then drizzled in a pistachio romesco sauce.