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The Guardian - AU
The Guardian - AU
Travel
Janine Israel

Whale watching and skinny dipping: three leisurely days on the Tomaree coastal walk

Three people standing on a viewing platform at the top of the Tomaree coastal walk, looking across stretches of beach and coastal vegetation in the late afternoon
The Tomaree coastal walk in NSW traverses beaches, dunes, bays, headlands, rock platforms, canyons, wetlands, coastal heath, angophora forests and historic Indigenous and second world war sites. Photograph: Remy Brand

The waves are tracking higher than the average Australian house when the opportunity arises to bare all. We’ve arrived on foot at Samurai beach, a remote nudist spot midway along the 27km Tomaree coastal walk on the New South Wales mid-north coast in the Port Stephens area. The one-in-50-year swell battering the state’s shoreline has clearly scared off the usual cohort of weekend naturists who come to this vast stretch of sand for its south-facing surf, salt-sprayed seclusion and pristine sand dunes.

Clothing removal is optional here, but my bushwalking buddy and I agree it would be rude not to experience the beach as it was intended. The only witnesses to our gleeful antics are a handful of nonchalant magpies foraging on the sand between bits of plastic, and a Gould’s petrel (the endangered seabird that nests on the nearby islands off Port Stephens) hovering high above the breakers like a grey and white drone with a 75cm wingspan.

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