Of the many people walking wide-eyed into the All Inn for the pub's launch party this week, I have to confess I was probably the most biased. Not only did I enjoy its long-running predecessor the Cross Hands, but I also used to live three doors down from its new chain's sister pub in Oxford, and loved it.
My loyalties were torn - the last time I was in the landmark Fishponds building, just a few months earlier, I was sinking into the old-fashioned sofa with a pint of reasonably-priced Guinness. From the moment the muted cream and grey exterior was painted a rather more controversial sage green and crimson red, the regulars knew it would likely target a trendier crowd - and it's only natural to be wary of change.
But on the other hand I know the Rusty Bicycle in East Oxford, the first pub in the now seven-strong portfolio at the Dodo Pub Co, to be a brilliant local. The burgers and pizzas there are seriously mouth-watering and they often ran cheap food and drink deals in the week. They were also involved with the community, closing off the street for a party every summer and posting free pint tokens to the residents as a thank-you for putting up with the noise.
