The sand is soft and clean, stretches for miles and is bordered by rolling hills and rugged cliffs with breathtaking views of Welsh mountains.
The water is clear and days can end with sunsets on a horizon that seems to go on forever. And as the beach is so big, visitors are likely to find a section all to themselves no matter how busy it gets. This is Traeth Harlech, on the coast of Gwynedd, where it is overlooked by an imposing 13th century castle.
Tripadvisor scores it the top beach in north Wales, just head of the beautiful Llanddwyn on Anglesey. Some reviewers go further, rating it the best in Wales and even Europe. Last month, a regular visitor upped the stakes again when breathlessly described the four-mile sweep of sand as “the most peaceful, calming and beautiful place on earth”. And so enamoured was a Southampton holidaymaker that he went down on one knee there and proposed to his partner of 10 years, saying: “It was the perfect setting for us both. It will forever hold a special place in our hearts.”
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Yet somehow Traeth Harlech sails beneath the radar. It missed out, for example, on last year’s Rough Guide's list of the best 21 beaches in Wales. In summer, leatherback turtles migrate to this part of the coast to feed on the jellyfish. In 1988, a record-breaking 916kg leatherback was washed up on Harlech beach after becoming snared by fishing equipment. “Sometimes the sea is crystal clear teeming with jellyfish,” wrote one visitor. “And other times it is a mysterious deep blue.”
It’s popular with water sports enthusiasts too, with opportunities for surfing and kayaking. Motorhomes gravitate towards the area as well, not just to see mighty Harlech Castle, a World Heritage Site, but also to take advantage of the town’s facilities.
“The beach is vast and empty, almost had it to ourselves,” said a couple who visited last summer. “Back to the motorhome at the leisure centre which was only £10 overnight.”
The dunes are another feature that makes this place special. Forming the Morfa Harlech National Nature Reserve, they are home to rare orchids and sand lizards. Its neighbour is Royal St David’s Golf Club, one of Britain’s finest links courses.
Famously, Harlech beach is not just dog-friendly, it’s dog heaven. Between April 1 and September 30, a section in front of the holiday park is off-limits but the rest of the beach is dog-accessible year round.
This is a beach that’s not commercialised: for cafes, pubs and restaurants, you’ll need to head into Harlech’s charming centre. Neither is it a beach to be enjoyed just during the day.
As one reviewer said: “A vast beach which we and our dog greatly enjoy. But to be slightly different, take a picnic and enjoy the sunset; it’s quite incredible!”
Across Wales, only the remote Marloes Sands in Pembrokeshire is rated higher by Tripadvisor users.
Where to park and how to get there
The main pay-and-display car park, at Ffordd Glan Mor (£3.30 for four hours, coin only), has almost 300 spaces but it’s a good 400-metre trek through dunes to the beach. As the sand is so soft, people with mobility issues may struggle. And if you need the toilet, you’ll need to head 400 metres back.
The beach has no lifeguard cover, so visitors should be aware of the possibility of strong currents and strong winds. Digging or burrowing in the sand dunes is strictly off-limits.
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