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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
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Jay Rayner

Sad, lonely losers or indulging a pleasure? Why solo diners are being judged

Jay Rayner photographed exclusively for OFM at 34 Mayfair, London
Jay Rayner: ‘A seven-course tasting menu could end up costing £390, before service and wine.’ Photograph: Levon Biss/The Observer

Luxury never comes cheap, but some divine experiences are more expensive than others. Last week the Michelin two-star restaurant Alex Dilling at Hotel Café Royal on London’s Regent Street, had to defend its policy of charging solo diners double.

As the price for the seven-course tasting menu is soon to rise to £195 a head, for the likes of aged Kaluga caviar with Cornish crab, and Shetland cod with smoked butter and black truffle, that would mean a bill of £390 for one, before service and wine. The restaurant’s owner, Victoria Sheppard, argues that they are a small venture with just 34 covers across 11 tables. “We have ever-increasing staff and ingredient costs,” she told me. “Our business would simply not be viable without implementing this policy.”

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