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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
World
David Ellis

Pressure on the cookers: Sky-high costs mean London’s restaurants are fighting for their lives

Michel Roux is insisting he is an optimistic sort, even as a note of desolation begins to sound in his sentences. ‘I’m a very positive person and always have been,’ he says. ‘But lately it’s been getting harder and harder.’ A long sigh.

In one form or another, it’s a sentence — sigh included — that is being uttered in kitchens across the capital. ‘You’ll usually hear me looking to the positives when it comes to business and the economy,’ is Bentley’s owner Richard Corrigan’s riff on it. ‘But we’re heading into uncertainty like we’ve never known before. It’s utterly terrifying.’

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