This is not so much a recipe as a lifeline: in case of emergency, open pantry door. It’ll require a little forward planning, since you’ll need to have the goods on hand for whenever a puttanesca hankering strikes – but truly, capers and olives should always be in there anyway, because they’re shortcuts to flavourtown. Splashing the tinned tuna in will pump up the protein, too.
Fish in springwater will retain more of its nutrient content and hold its shape better than fish in oil, but if you’d prefer to stick to oil, an olive oil base is what you’re after. When choosing the best fish in tins from a sustainability perspective, look for labels and logos such as a Marine Stewardship Council “blue tick”. As far as fishing methods go, “dolphin-friendly” is just the beginning, so scan for words such as “pole-and-line caught” or “FAD-free purse seine”. Skipjack is the tuna type to look for, then albacore; try to avoid endangered species such as yellowfin, bluefin and big-eye.
