The town that time forgot to develop
Orchha's cenotaphs line the Betwa's edge the way old men sit outside a chai shop, unhurried, unannounced, assuming you'll notice them on your own terms. There are fourteen of them, built between the 16th and 19th centuries for the Bundela rulers, and on a weekday morning you can stand among them with no one else in sight. No audio guide. No selfie queue. Just the sound of the river and the particular silence of stone that has been standing long enough to stop caring whether you look.
