In case anyone had forgotten that the original (and perhaps ultimate) purpose of the Michelin guide is to sell tyres to motorists driving to restaurants, this year’s unveiling of the new stars for Great Britain and Ireland was held at Silverstone racetrack. It didn’t feel quite like the victory lap for the first physical star presentation since before the pandemic, a fact alluded to when host Amanda Stretton — a champion racing driver herself — beckoned any standing guests to the empty chairs by the stage, like a train conductor announcing available seats in a quiet carriage.
It is easy to be cynical about an awards ceremony with its roots in encouraging car travel — perhaps the least appropriate theme for eco-obsessed 2023, but one nonetheless driven home by the constant references to journeys. “We are epicurean explorers” the opening voiceover solemnly intoned, establishing Michelin’s mission to celebrate travel, gastronomy and sustainability: “those are the journeys at the heart of the Michelin guide.”
