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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Lucie Grace

Lucky dips: a rail tour of Slovakia’s best spa towns

A swimming pool with a mock Greek temple at the end and statues on columns
Aphrodite spa in Rajecké Teplice, ‘the Vegas of spa resorts’ in Slovakia. Photograph: Richard Kohler/Spa Aphrodite

‘Centuries ago people used to say, ‘In three days the Piešťany water will either heal you or kill you.’” My guide Igor Paulech is showing me around Spa Island – a hot-spring haven in the middle of the Váh River that runs through Piešťany, Slovakia’s most prestigious spa town. Just an hour north of Bratislava by train, the town and its spa-populated island are packed with grand art nouveau and art deco buildings.

There’s a faint aroma of sulphur in the air as Igor paces ahead, past peacocks and ponds full of lilies, imparting his home town’s history. The hot water that springs from beneath the island sandbank has created what we’re all here for: a blueish medicinal mud that’s rich in hydrogen sulphide and sulphur.

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