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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
National
Ben McCormack and David Ellis

London’s best tasting menus — that offer decent value for money

Not your usual surf-n-turf: Hot Stone

(Picture: Handout)

Tasting menus are the Marmite of the restaurant world. Some love the idea of a long evening eating as many courses as possible, others hate the endurance test of plate after tiny plate, each gone in a single foamy mouthful.

A tasting menu, however, is more than the fine-dining equivalent of the all-you-can-eat buffet. At its best, one should be a carefully considered procession of self-contained dishes, an ebb and flow of contrast and balance that builds to form a harmonious whole that showcases a chef’s food philosophy. It might not always happen, but that’s the idea.

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