Is London dining in the grip of a Noughties nostalgia binge to rival the threatened Girls Aloud reunion? Le Comptoir Robuchon rebranded in September as aughts hotspot L’Atelier de Robuchon. Now Camden Lock’s long-forgotten Gilgamesh is being resurrected in Covent Garden, while Clap (no sniggering, please) is launching in Knightsbridge with a menu that could have been Xeroxed from Zuma or Nobu, Roka or Sumosan, or indeed any other pre-credit crunch modern Japanese. Well, “modern” meaning “circa 2005”.
Unfortunately, if you can remember the Noughties, you really were there — so thank heavens for some rather more up-to-date eating-out ideas this month, from casual Malaysian to Puglian small plates. And for anyone who hasn’t yet been to the whizzy new developments at Battersea Power Station: a soft launch of 50% off food at the new Dishoom means that Christmas has come early.
