There was a time when booking dinner in London wasn’t complete without burlesque dancers and sparklers. When large bottles of champagne were just another drinks order. “Clubstaurants”, as they’re now known, weren’t just venues for eating out, they were full-blown spectacles, where the table was your stage and dinner came with a side of disco.
But recently that sparkly, saxophone-filled era has been fading. Dancers have taken their final bows, the shows are shorter (or gone altogether), and venues that once thrived on high drama have quietly pivoted to what they used to perhaps sideline: the food.
