Koloman, The Ace Hotel, 16 West 29th Street, New York (+1 212 790 8970). Starters $15-$26, mains $28-$65, desserts $16, wines from $45
Bear with me. I need to spark up my iPhone torch to read the menu. That’s better. And perhaps I should lean in closer to catch your witty gossip over the management’s booming playlist. Yes, I may be in New York, but there’s an awful lot here that is achingly familiar. On my first night in town, for example, I am dispatched by a knowledgable friend to Cervo’s, a Portuguese-inflected place on the Lower East Side. Despite an eight-hour flight, I could be in Dalston. The narrow, wood-panelled room, with its open kitchen and bandana’d chefs, would fit in very comfortably there.
