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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Josh Barrie

Kiln: Top Thai chef to bring traditional Isaan cooking to Soho restaurant Kiln

One of Bangkok’s most prestigious chefs will host a one-night takeover at the Soho restaurant Kiln next week.

Chalee Kader, from Wana Yok and 100 Mahaseth, will on October 25 turn the noodle and clay pot joint Kiln into a traditional laap koi restaurant, a style from northeastern Thailand that specialises in chopped meats, offal soups, and sticky rice.

Kader is best-known for his “root-to-fruit, brains-to-balls, farm-to-table” approach and rose to prominence in Bangkok with his uncompromising Isaan cooking, a style that uses fermentation, pickling, and an abundance of fresh Thai herbs.

More recently, he has explored khao gaeng, cuisine from the south of Thailand that often sees fish and meat curries matched with jasmine rice.

On the night, Kiln will strip away its stools and transform the restaurant into a standing-only laap koi bar. On the menu will be the likes of laap kwai dip, or raw venison with dry spices, garlic and herbs; laap ped, made with mallard, fried offal and herbs; and d’tom hed, which is a broth made with ya-nang leaves, wild mushrooms, and fermented fish innards.

Kiln head chef Meedu Saad said of the collaboration: “Our team visited Chalee in his Bangkok restaurant Wana Yook earlier this year, spending time with him in the kitchen and on the busy streets, getting stuck into Chalee’s favourite spots around town.

“A chance to continue this relationship and learn so much directly from how Chalee approached the produce we source through the season will be another wonderful experience.”

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