At times it has felt as if I run a kitchen help line. The calls always come just when the muddle of kids, work and minor emergencies are at their zenith. Mum is on the other end of WhatsApp asking me if I have any ideas for the glut of chard, courgettes and overgrown lettuce they are experiencing, as they’ve friends coming round. I do my best to advise and wait to hear how it went. There is a pretty high success rate, I’m pleased to report.
In this spirit I propose a seasonal feast for my parents in Italy. My route to this menu has been via Shepherd’s Bush market in London, which is groaning with good stuff at this time of year, if you know how to shop. It is a menu full of nostalgia for Kent and southern Italy without any specific tradition. Essentially, a tasty journey towards a pile of summer fruits with cream.
