Get all your news in one place.
100's of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Jimi Famurewa

Jimi Famurewa reviews Akara: Modern West African takes a swaggering step forward

Well this is exciting. In a sadistic, unflattering sort of way. We were not long settled into the chic, exposed-brick gloom of Akara — a new West African spot in the redeveloped outer rim of Borough Market — when our waitress’s introductory spiel, about the restaurant’s namesake black-eyed bean fritter, was interrupted by a voice that sounded alarmingly like my own.

“And what’s really cool,” I butted in, as she looked on in frozen puzzlement and my mate stifled a knowing, lightly mortified laugh, “is that the same dish from Nigeria is basically reinvented in the Caribbean as accra, the saltfish fritter. And then, in Brazil, as acaraje.”

Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100's of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.