Home is…
A little village in Essex called Finchingfield. It’s a beautiful place and somewhere I used to take Jules for dates when we were younger. Before that it was London for 25 years. After Covid, we decided to sort of make the jump.
What was your first job?
I was head pastry chef at the Neal Street restaurant in Covent Garden, working for Antonio Carluccio and my mentor, Gennaro Contaldo. It was a different time, different life, different laws. London was a different place, man. I mean, the things that used to happen. The police would always be there past closing, coming in at three in the morning for a coffee. Gennaro used to send them up some bread and give them his parking tickets, and they used to disappear. He couldn’t do it now.
Best place for a first date?
A walk through Regent’s Park and a picnic in the Rose Garden. By picnic I mean different cheeses and all the condiments that go with it, all the little niceties, and some bread and crackers. Go to La Fromagerie and say, ‘I want to have a little cheese tasting to take on a picnic.’ Don’t tell them anything. They’ll choose it for you. Believe in the cheese. The power of cheese is profound.
Where would you most like to be buried?
Put me in the Holly Bush Pub in Hampstead, so people can stand on me and have a pint. I think my happiest time in London was living next door. People told me not to move there, but I loved it. Even when Liam Gallagher was shouting through the letterbox saying, ‘Make me a bacon sandwich!’
Favourite shops?
Audio Gold in Muswell Hill for the coolest vinyl and stereos, and they can restore all the stuff from your parents, too. Neal’s Yard Dairy, who are about as legit as it gets with what they’ve done for British farmers, cheese-makers. Liberty for Christmas presents for Jules, my mum and my sister. And DR Harris in St James’s — it’s just full of history, tradition and ritual.
If you could buy any building in London, which would it be?
Big Ben could be an amazing smoker. It’d be the most famous bacon around the world, and it will fix the British economy.
Most iconic Londoner?
Paul Smith. He’s just the coolest, nicest dude, the most creative guy. His shops are amazing. And he’s been an amazing mentor of mine for 25 years. He’s done so for hundreds of young Londoners. I first met him when I was working at the River Café and didn’t believe it was him — so I made him take his credit card out to prove it.
Best thing a cabbie has ever said to you?
I’ve often been thanked for the conception of their children, because they’ve cooked one of my recipes on the first date and got lucky through the erotic power of The Naked Chef.
Biggest extravagance?
Growing up, Gennaro always loved James Bond, so for his 60th I bought him a black E-type Jag like a year before his birthday and spent the year getting it restored. I had it delivered with a bespoke Paul Smith suit and Pavarotti playing. It was a pleasure to see a grown man cry like a little baby [when he received it].
What’s your London secret?
A mobile pub called The Cock in Cider is about to set off around London. You get to see all the lovely spots as you travel around having a beer. You can jump on and off along the route and it’s just brilliant.
Jamie Oliver Catherine St is open now, 6 Catherine Street, WC2 (jamieolivercatherinest.com)
