Lucca might just be the most perfect Tuscan city for London weekenders, an intimate and compact mash up of narrow cobbled streets, marble-fronted churches — 101 of them — tall towers and Renaissance walls all within 30 minutes of Pisa airport. Despite its accessibility and charm, there’s a real shortage of good hotels in the city — so hurray for Grand Universe Lucca.
The 55-room hotel is part of Marriot’s Autograph Collection. Opened in 2021, it marries international quality with a thoroughly Italian flavour.
Where is it?
Inside the solid Renaissance walls that encircle Lucca, Grand Universe Lucca has a simply superb position on two of the city’s grandest squares, Piazza del Giglio and Piazza Napoleone.
The hotel’s grand façade overlooks the statue of Italian unifier Giuseppe Garibaldi with the Teatro del Giglio opera house opposite. All of Lucca’s shops, restaurants and historic sites are within an easy walk.
Lucca is an authentic, understated city in the north of Tuscany, accessible by car, train or bus from Pisa airport. Viareggio on the Tuscan coast is 30 minutes away, and within 90 minutes there’s both winter skiing at Abetone and the cultural brilliance of Florence and Chianti.
Style
Think lavish Tuscan splendour with a contemporary flourish. The hotel is built on what was once the site of a glassblower’s atelier in Roman times before the Paoli family built their grand Renaissance palazzo. It first opened as a hotel in 1857 (with guests having included English writer John Ruskin), and now newly renovated and updated, its style gives a loyal nod to its history. There are high arched ceilings and Tuscan colours mixed with contemporary furnishings and art. It’s comfortable, welcoming and beautiful.
Facilities
There’s a small gym and Champagne Roof Top Bar on the top floor and a bar, lounge area and restaurant on the ground floor, centred on a grand piano with frequent live performances. The only outside space are the dining tables lined up on Piazza Napoleone, ideal for a glimpse of daily Lucca life over breakfast or dinner.
The hotel has some cheery yellow bikes for a must-do cycle around the thick city walls — 2.5 miles of tree-lined beauty that have stood intact for over 500 years and today, act as Lucca’s park and well-used promenade. The hotel’s helpful front desk can arrange wine tasting, cookery classes and city tours. They also proved adept at reserving tables at apparently fully booked restaurants.
Extracurricular
Lucca is magnificent, a wealthy working city that made its money in the paper, silk and leather industries. It remains wonderfully local and inside the walls at least, remarkably free of large shops and most high street names. Spend the days walking the narrow lanes, browsing in the small boutiques. Stock up on fine linen shirts, beautiful leather goods and Tuscan delicacies. Climb the tree-topped gothic Torre Guinigi, one of several towers built as a show of medieval wealth and tour the ruins of the Roman amphitheatre.
Lucca was the birthplace of Puccini and his influence remains strong and as well as opportunities to hear classical music, the annual Summer Festival brings world-famous artists including, this year, Ed Sheeran and Duran Duran .
Food and Drink
The Legacy Restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, offering a modern take on traditional Tuscan food helped in no small way by the extraordinary local produce: porcini mushrooms, truffles, fabulous fish and top grade meats. Service is delightful and warm with the majority of staff from Lucca itself. Grand Universe Lucca might have a big international hotel brand’s name above the door but this is a determinedly Tuscan hotel.
Which Room
The 55 rooms and suites divide into four categories with the spacious junior suites and duplex suites benefitting from excellent views over the piazza. Top picks include 308, a junior suite on the third floor in the centre of the hotel with views over Piazza del Giglio towards the city walls, a good vantage point to watch daily Lucca life unfold. Two minutes-walk from Grand Universe Lucca, Grand Universe La Residenza has ten one and two-bedroom apartments with kitchens and generous living space.
Best for
London weekenders looking for a sure-fire dose of Italian lifestyle will find it here. Come as a couple, in a group or as a family — there are some interconnecting rooms and disabled access - and the range of activities and food options should please everyone.
The details
Double rooms are priced from £220 per night. granduniverselucca.com
