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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Zoe Williams

‘Good fish smells of the sea on a hot stone’: Nathan Outlaw on simple seafood cooking

Nathan Outlaw cooking steamed brill with pea, shallot and cider stew.
‘I don’t need to do anything boring’ … Nathan Outlaw cooking steamed brill with pea, shallot and cider stew. Photograph: Kate Whitaker/The Guardian

It’s 23 years since Nathan Outlaw opened the Black Pig in Rock, Cornwall, when he was 25 years old. It was a long shot that everyone told him not to take – he already had a great job at the Vineyard in Stockcross, Berkshire; his wife, Rachel, was eight-and-a-half months pregnant; and he’d won a couple of prestigious young chef awards. But he wanted a place of his own; a simple menu, “bistro cooking,” he says. “That’s why I became a chef. I loved cooking, my dad’s a good canteen chef, he worked in a big paper mill in Kent, cooking for workers. I loved the physical aspect, standing up doing something. I loved the way there’s a lot of team work. I didn’t know anything about Michelin stars or being famous.” But he got his first Michelin star anyway, the year after he opened.

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