Florence Pugh made an unannounced but memorable stop on the "Spider-Man: Brand New Day" press tour, arriving at the London premiere in a gown that felt more like a piece of wearable sculpture than a red carpet dress. The look, pulled from Tamara Ralph's Spring/Summer 2026 collection, gave fashion watchers a close look at the kind of handwork that separates true couture from ready-to-wear.
Pugh appears in the film as Yelena Belova, and while her role is reportedly brief, her fashion moment at the Odeon Luxe Leicester Square on July 29 was anything but small. The gown, known as Look 29 from the collection, was cut close to the body in a column silhouette that ran floor length, with an ankle-grazing hem finished in fringe.
The Detail Behind Tamara Ralph's Silver Fringe
What set the gown apart was its surface. Every inch was covered in crystal xilions, a Swarovski technique that alternates stones of different sizes to bounce light in multiple directions rather than a single flat sparkle. Paired with silver bugle beads worked into the fringe, the effect gave the dress a moving quality on the carpet, catching light differently with each step Pugh took.
The most striking element sat at the shoulders. A dramatic winged neckline extended outward before dropping into cascading fringe that draped over the arms like a soft shawl, then continued down as a plunging V at the front. That combination of a sharp, structural silhouette against soft, flowing fringe is a signature builder of visual tension in couture, and it took center stage here.
Tamara Ralph, the Australian designer behind the collection, showed the original runway version during Paris Couture Week in January 2026. The wider collection drew on Asian references, particularly fans and origami, translating folded paper shapes into structured necklines and sharply pleated skirts. The winged shape on Pugh's gown echoes that same architectural folding, reworked in metal and crystal instead of fabric alone.
Styling Choices on the Red Carpet
Stylist Rebecca Corbin-Murray rounded out the look with Bulgari jewelry, including emerald and diamond pieces and a Serpenti bracelet, chosen to complement rather than compete with the gown's own sparkle. Metallic silver sandals kept the palette consistent from head to toe, while hairstylist Hyungsun Ju gave Pugh a sleek, swept-back updo with soft tendrils framing her face. Makeup stayed in the same understated register, with a rosy nude lip and softly defined eyes letting the gown remain the focal point.
Pugh was not the only cast member in Tamara Ralph that night. Zendaya, who plays MJ, wore a gown from the same designer's Fall 2026 couture collection, styled separately by Law Roach. Seeing two leads from the same film in pieces by one house, shown just months apart on the runway, gave the London premiere an unusual thread connecting the film's press tour to Paris Couture Week.
For a designer built on precision beading and sculptural shapes, the premiere offered a rare split screen: one gown rooted in the spring collection's fan and origami references, another from the darker, more formal fall lineup, both proving how far couture handwork can travel from the runway to the red carpet.
