Christmas marks the beginning of the year’s end. But dessert – a flaming pudding, wobblicious trifle or aristocratic panettone – need not mark the end of the Christmas feast. Instead, it marks time to relax: to have the first glass too many, to slouch back in a chair, for the children to be at liberty to play. Time to load the table with treats that sustain hours of simply being together. I stage a four-pronged attack on the senses and sensibilities.
First, a downbeat cocktail. My weapon of choice here is the boulevardier, a heavy, heady, spirit-laden take on the negroni; it is warming, aromatic with citrus zest, and a perfect way to ease into the evening. Stir a measure or two of bourbon or rye, a measure of sweet vermouth (I like Antica Formula, Martini Rosso or Cocchi Torino) and a measure of Campari over plenty of ice, then strain over fresh ice cubes in an old fashioned glass. Serve garnished with a twist of orange.
