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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Lifestyle
Alicia Miller

Europe’s best second cities — and how to make the most of them

Aarhus, Denmark

Rooftop installation at Aarhus’s fabulous ARoS museum (Robin Skjoldborg / Visit Denmark)

Why: Compact Aarhus is the dream city break – brimming with culture and sights, but also manageable enough to tackle in a weekend. It’s more affordable than Danish capital Copenhagen, and yet there’s no cut on quality; the city’s strollable waterfront, enticing green spaces and fabulous food scene are proof enough of that.

See & Do: The stand-out sight is the ARoS museum, a gallery as good as you’ll find in any capital, crowned with a walk-through installation by artist Olafur Eliasson. In fact Aarhus has more than its fair share of ace museums, from archaeological Moesgaard to Den Gamle By, a collection of open-air half-timbered buildings. When you’re not gallery hopping, hit quaint cobbled shopping street Møllestien or see Arne Jacobsen-designed Aarhus City Hall for more top Scandi design.

Eat & Drink: Aarhus has four Michelin-starred restaurants, including Wassim Hallal’s two-starred Restaurant Frederikshøj, serving the likes of oysters with monkfish roe and chestnut. Meanwhile Domestic holds a sustainability-focused green Michelin star for its hyper-local, hyper-seasonal cuisine.

Stay: Glam it up old-school style at the regal Hotel Royal (from £142), open since 1838. It’s traditional but not tired: glittering chandeliers adorn the opulent public spaces and Versace tiles feature in one of the suites.

Milan, Italy

Portrait Milano: once a seminary, now a chic hotel (Portrait Milano)

Why Capital Rome might have the Colosseum and that Michelangelo painted ceiling, but Milan has got cool. Since the Expo in 2015, this financial and fashion hub has been undergoing a makeover, with a glut of new design hotels, trendy restaurants and elevated retail spaces drawing visitors. Throw in some lovely historic buildings and atmospheric drinking holes, and visiting is a no-brainer.

See & Do: Milan’s Duomo is an unmissable landmark; a riot of soaring spires and stone carvings in the heart of the city. If you’re art-inclined, carry on to Cenacolo Vinciano museum to take in Da Vinci’s The Last Supper painting – if not, slip into a local vibe in hip Isola. Cutting-edge architecture mish-mashes with sleepy neighbourhood cool and there’s no shortage of lovely places to eat.

Eat & Drink: Horto is among the city’s hottest restaurants, artfully dishing up ethically sourced produce from Lombardy – perhaps hay-scented milk curd with mushrooms and truffle. For something more traditional, partake in the city’s daily aperitivo hour at retro Bar Basso – birthplace of the Negroni Sbagliato.

Stay: If you need proof that Milano is second to no city, check into the new Portrait Milano (from £825). Set in an ancient seminary, and overlooking a rambling square – Piazza del Quadrilatero – it’s elevated the city’s fashion district to new heights of designer cool.

Rotterdam, Netherlands

The eye-catching archive of Boijmans van Beuningen (Iris van den Broek / Netherlands Board of Tourism and Conventions)

Why: Closer to London than Amsterdam – the Eurostar stops here on the way to the Dutch capital – Rotterdam also shows off the Netherlands’ contemporary side. Severely damaged during WWII, the city once had a somewhat gritty reputation. But after years of investment and innovation it’s now the world-class modern architecture and a fabulous art scene that gets people talking.

See & Do: If you want Rembrandt and Mondrian, make for Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, home of the city’s vast eclectic art collection. But arguably the most exciting visual stimulation is on the street. The lemon-yellow Cube Houses, tilted at 45-degrees, are a show-stopping must from Dutch architect Piet Blom. Meanwhile, the Westersingel Sculpture Route has 17 works by artists ranging from Rodin to Paul McCarthy.

Eat & Drink: The recently opened Markthal puts an edible spin on the city’s cutting-edge builds. The vast illuminated contemporary space is filled great globe-trotting places to eat from tapas bars to dumpling spots. Meanwhile, for something more dressed up, select from the multiple Michelin-starred options. Two-starred François Geurds serves elaborate tasting menus.

Stay: Get a dose of the playful vibe in Rotterdam’s architecture scene at Room Mate Bruno (from £87), where rooms are painted in lavender or banana hues and the buffet breakfast blissfully runs until noon.

Marseille, France

Marseille as seen from the water (© Valentin Pacaut / The Explorers - In partnership with Atout France)

Why: With year-round Mediterranean rays and sparkling sea on its doorstep, this Provençal city sure trumps Paris for weather. And unlike some of the tourist-clogged corners of Montmartre – or, for that matter, some other coastal destinations like Saint-Tropez – this cosmopolitan working port feels refreshingly ‘real’. Just wandering around provides cultural immersion; no tick-box sightseeing required.

See & Do: Life in Marseille has always centred around the Old Port. Wander through the fish market – source for the city’s signature bouillabaisse fish soup – and gaze up at the stripey neo-Byzantine cathedral. The techy new Cosquer Méditerranée cultural centre whisks you through local palaeolithic history via a large-scale replica of priceless cave art. In summer, you’ve got to hit the beach – Plage des Catalans is closest, but Les Calanques has got the nature-factor.

Eat & Drink: Back to that bouillabaisse: it’s a local obsession, and while ‘the best’ is a subject term, Chez Fonfon certainly turns out a strong version. Meanwhile street art-splashed Cours Julien has both cosy little bars and international restaurants, reflective of Marseille’s own multicultural heritage.

Stay: Stylish Alex Hôtel & Spa (from £96) is in the heart of the city centre by the Old Port and has rooms that pair bold colour splashes with crisp white bedding. There’s a wee spa; a refreshing escape from the city rush.

Valencia, Spain

Historic corners of seaside Valencia (David Rota / Spanish Tourist Office)

Why: Technically Spain’s second city is Barcelona, but we all know that’s already a tourist magnet. So for another seaside star with golden beaches, fabulous food and cool architecture, plump for Valencia – further south along the coast. Just like Barcelona it fuses new cool with old-world atmosphere, and as much sangria as you fancy.

See & Do: The beach is an obvious stop in summer; Las Arenas has the buzz with volleyball courts and restaurants, while wilder El Saler is fringed with pine trees. When it’s time for culture, take your pick. Gothic La Lonja silk exchange is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its swirly columns, while the City of Arts and Sciences Monuments is a modern marvel with Europe’s largest aquarium.

Eat & Drink: Valencia is all about the rice dishes, especially paella. Contemporary El Coso del Mar does a strong seafood version within a beach ball’s toss of the sea. In the city centre, slick Goya Gallery serves rice delights prepared every which way, with lobster, shredded duck or Iberico pork.

Stay: Slip into the local lifestyle by booking into Barracart (from about £116), a collection of stylish studio apartments a few minutes’ walk from sandy Playa de las Arenas. Clean minimal interiors, speedy WiFi connections and kitchens for whipping up morning brekkies make it especially good for WFV (working from Valencia).

Hamburg, Germany

Hamburg is a city of canals and bridges (Mediaserver Hamburg / Julia Schwendner)

Why: If Berlin is known for Hackney-esque cool and Munich for Bavarian beauty, middle sister Hamburg is sometimes overlooked by visitors. Which is a shame. Germany’s second-largest city is a cultural, affluent, outgoing powerhouse by the North Sea. A proud Hanseatic League member, it has a maritime flavour all its own.

See & Do: Germany’s answer to Venice is criss-crossed with canals so take to the water; cruises along the Elbe River showcase the city’s grand merchant architecture dating back centuries. Back on dry land get stuck into the legendary music scene, booking in for a performance at the Elbphilharmonie concert hall or seeking out one of around 100 smaller venues dotting centre.

Eat & Drink: With this waterside location seafood is a must; try upmarket Rive overlooking the port or aptly named Bistro Catch of the Day in the Maritimes Museum. Want to go out-out? The Reeperbahn is one of Europe’s best-known party streets – if that’s your scene, there’s no end to the fun with clubs staying open until dawn (or sometimes later).

Stay: Fully embrace the waterside lifestyle at The Fontenay (from £282) set on the banks of Alster Lake. The parquet floors are droolworthy, the high-tech spa is flooded with light and the bar does tasty tequila cocktails.

Zagreb, Croatia

Overlooking the green hills of Zagreb (Croatian National Tourist Board)

Why: Yes, Zagreb is the Croatian capital. But from a tourism perspective it lags behind smaller hubs Split and Dubrovnik – popular gateways to the holidaymaker-favourite Adriatic islands. And this inland city deserves more visitors given its many charms and affordable sights.

See & Do: In contrast to Roman-atmospheric Split and walled Dubrovnik, inland Zagreb blends Austro-Hungarian influences, Gothic builds and Brutalism in a deliciously eclectic mix. The postcard sight is medieval St Mark’s Church with its checked roof tiling, but it’s also worth stopping off at the mustard-hued neo-Baroque National Theatre. For the city’s quirky side, check out the Museum of Broken Relationships – stuffed with trinkets from romantic break ups donated by people around the world.

Eat & Drink: Steps from the main square, Ban Jelačić Square, Pod Zidom sources produce from local markets and Dalmatian farms for its daily-changing menus. For trad food done to perfection, Tač is slightly out of the centre but worth the journey for the truffle-laden dishes.

Stay: Cool Hotel President Pantovcak (from around £102) has loft-style rooms overlooking greenery, which make you feel miles from city life. A mishmash of modern art and antiques gives the suites a one-of-a-kind homely feel.

Thessaloniki, Greece

Rooftop at The Met, a member of Design Hotels (The Met Hotel / Design Hotels)

Why: Athens has made leaps and bounds in cool-factor over the past few years, but Greece’s second city – perched on the blue waters of the Aegean – is worth a visit too. It might not be conventionally beautiful but it’s lively, with street art, galleries and cool cafes and bars among the eclectic jumble of architecture.

See & Do: This being Greece, there’s history everywhere you look. Besides a catch-all Archaeological Museum with Hellenistic sculpture, there is a dedicated Museum of Byzantine Culture and the 34m Ottoman-built White Tower, a former prison. But you can go for a more 2023 side of things by hitting the buzzy Ladadika District for dive bars in old warehouses or cool tavernas.

Eat & Drink: Greeks love their cafes and in Thessaloniki iced coffees are practically mandatory. Valenio takes its brews very seriously, run by a barista that’s a certified coffee judge. For something more substantial, Charoupi has cool takes on Cretan cuisine. For ace cocktails, try Casablanca Social Club.

Stay: Design Hotels member The Met Hotel (from £119) has one heck of a rooftop pool overlooking the Aegean Sea. And its minimalist monochrome rooms are the perfect backdrop for its contemporary art collection.

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