The Danube mist was so thick I could hardly see the dawn. On Friday I woke up in a cheap hotel in the Romanian city of Galati, close to the point where the nation meets both Ukraine and Moldova. I was heading for the latter – specifically on the 8am bus to the city of Comrat, capital of the strange Autonomous Territorial Unit of Gagauzia. After seeing the sights and a spot of lunch, I would continue to the national capital of Chisinau on the 1.05pm bus in good time for some exploration. What could possibly go wrong – and right? I was about to find out.
8am: The sole Mir Trans Express departure of the day to Comrat is due to leave from an implausible location: on a suburban street just past a student pub named Student Pub, with no evidence whatsoever that this is an international departure point. I arrive in good time, since any alternative to the bus is guaranteed to be expensive and awkward. I have no actual ticket, just a reservation. Furthermore, I have neither Romanian nor Moldovan currency: just two €50 notes.
