Review at a glance: ★★★☆☆
Choose one: Ray Liotta in Casino, Joe Pesci in Goodfellas, Carmela Soprano or whatshername in Scarface. Picked a favourite? Swell. This is your Carbone character. It is required; you cannot visit simply as yourself. The thing with Carbone, everyone says, it that you “must embrace it” — and there was me thinking restaurants were meant to impress their customers, not the other way around. Handily, the script never wavers: dress up, listen to Dean Martin, order the martini, have the vodka pasta, take a bow. It’s not a complex show, you’ve seen this one before.
