The Romans thought aubergines were poisonous, and called them mala insana – the apples of insanity. While the name stuck in Italy (melanzana), the bad rap didn’t, and they are now the star ingredient in dishes across the globe, from moussaka in Greece to baingan bhartha in India. Cook them over fire or under a hot grill until their flesh is smoky and silken; their dense, meaty texture also holds up well in curries and stir-fries. However you choose to cook them, though, be bold: aubergines have little flavour of their own, but they are terrific sponges for punchy spices, condiments and dressings.
