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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Grace Dent

Bar Valette, London E2: ‘How to be truly relaxed while paying £11 for a bowl of kale’ – restaurant review

London Michelin
Bar Valette, east London
Bar Valette, London E2: ‘Watching the old guard of enfants terribles Michelin chefs do “informal” is all rather fascinating.’ Photograph: Matthew Hague/The Guardian

Bar Valette in Shoreditch is a casual, relaxed, laid-back, let’s-go-with-the-flow type of restaurant. It serves modern European food and caters to the kind of audience who follow restaurant news in much the same way as others follow opera gossip or Formula One, and they’ll book out of sheer curiosity to experience this all-new, deeply chilled affair from Isaac McHale, chef/owner of the two Michelin-starred Clove Club nearby.

We were led to believe that Bar Valette would not be at all like that well-known destination-dining spot. Not as formal. More come as you are. Clapshot croquettes (that’s mashed swede and potato, by the way), chicken in a basket, fancy fish with spuds, flan for pudding. The prices, however, aren’t informal at all and are very much still wearing tuxes, cummerbunds and spats. Small plates from £16 and snacks at £11. Want spuds with that? That’ll be £9, please.

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