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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Tom Hunt

‘Astonishingly good value’: the best supermarket tofu, tasted and rated

tofu stacked like ancient triptychs in the sunset.
Soy to the world: read on to find out which supermarket makes the best tofu. Photograph: Robert Billington/The Guardian. Food styling: Robert Billington.

This test helped me realise just how much I truly love tofu, even cold. Like all deceptively simple products, such as wine, coffee and chocolate, tofu’s character is rooted in its terroir: the soil, biodiversity, climate, plant species and production process. Most tofu is made by curdling soy milk with nigari, a coagulant made from magnesium chloride, which is naturally derived from seawater. It’s an ancient method still used across Japan and south-east Asia.

To keep things fair, I tasted each tofu cold, straight from the packet, then boiled and fried (without pressing or seasoning) each one to observe its flavour, structure and performance. Boiling showed that all the tofus held their shape, while frying brought out major differences in colouring, crust and bite: some crisped up beautifully, others stayed soft and chewy, so if you mainly fry your tofu, that’s worth bearing in mind. It’s also worth noting that organic tofus are GMO-free by definition.

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