The thought of food shopping after the excesses of the festive season and when the weather is gloomy can feel a bit of an ordeal, so, thankfully, a rummage around my kitchen cupboards usually provides a quick, frugal dinner. Tinned foods aren’t just for hard times, though – they can be magnificent. Cans of fish are prized in Spain and Portugal for good reason, tinned tomatoes ensure you have good-quality ones on hand all year round, legumes and pulses are convenient and versatile, and condensed milk is an essential for so many puddings. So dust down that can opener: there’s treasure in your pantry.