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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Rachel Dixon

Witch hunt: a Halloween trail through Scotland’s haunting past

The Jacobite garden behind Culross Palace in the village of Culross.
The Jacobite garden behind Culross Palace in Culross, one of three villages on the Fife Witches Trail. Photograph: Szymon Mucha/Alamy

The tourists crowding into Edinburgh Castle can be forgiven for overlooking a small fountain and plaque near the entrance; it is easily missed. But we have come here especially to see the Witches’ Well. This modest monument marks the spot where more than 300 women were murdered – strangled and burned at the stake – in the 16th century. More “witches” were killed here than anywhere else in Scotland.

We are on a Real Women of Edinburgh walking tour with Invisible Cities, which employs people who have experienced homelessness. Our gregarious guide, Sonny, tells us tales of witch-hunts, but also of women such as Maggie Dickson, who miraculously survived a public execution in the early 1700s, and Agnes Maclehose, for whom a besotted Robert Burns wrote Ae Fond Kiss.

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