Tucked away in the Kasbah des Oudayas, in Rabat, Morocco’s capital city by the sea, I bite into a pastilla (a delicious mix of shredded chicken, almonds, cinnamon, saffron and honey encased in buttery, flaky pastry).
I’m in Dar El Karam Fatima, a family-run café with outside seating set on a higgle-piggle of rooftop terraces. My view is to River Bou Regreg at the mouth of the Atlantic Ocean, where flouka (wooden row boats) ferry goods and passengers between Rabat and the 10th-century city of Salé that lies on the opposite bank.
