Why completing Japan’s historic 88 temple pilgrimage is so rewarding – and gruelling

Samantha trekked a staggering 1,200km on the ancient ‘Shikoku Henro’ route in Japan - (Samantha Herbert)

I’m walking – no, staggering – along a narrow country road in rural Shikoku. The temperature on my phone reads 45C and the air is so thick with humidity in the midday sun that it’s hard to breathe.

I’m sweating like I’ve never sweated before. And carrying a giant 18kg backpack, I feel as though I’m fighting for my life out here.