Chickpeas, beans and pulses don’t agree with me – what can I use instead?
It really depends on the time of year and what you’re making, but as Itamar Srulovich, chef/co-owner of the Honey & Co group of restaurants, cafes and delis in London, sees it, we’re talking about “soupy, stewy situations, or a dippy situation”; perhaps salads, maybe falafel. The nice thing about soups and stews made with beans or chickpeas is their texture, so in this scenario Srulovich, who recently launched The Daily Nightly, an evening offering at Honey & Co Daily, would turn to “lentils if you eat them, and otherwise something along the lines of maftoul or fregola”. Marie Mitchell, chef and author of Kin (published in June), is also firmly in camp carb: “Orzo is always a good shout in soups, to get a bit more oomph, but if you’re up for a bit of texture, then roast old bread and add spices.”
Stews welcome grains with open arms, particularly pearl barley, says Mitchell, who spices things up with ginger, turmeric and garlic, then adds roast veg and coconut milk: “That’s like a hug in a bowl.” Chantelle Nicholson, chef/patron of Apricity in London, meanwhile, also favours barley (“for a bit more texture”) or looks to the “more flavourful grains” such as emmer wheat or spelt. And don’t forget your five-a-day, she says: “If you dice celeriac, parsnip or swede small enough, they can be a great alternative in stews and soups, creating a similar creamy texture to pulses.”
For salad days, Nicholson would also make it all about veg: “Don’t forget things that can give a bit of texture: rhubarb diced in a salad is delicious, say, while daikon, mooli or turnip will soak up the flavour during cooking, much as pulses do.” If you’re in need of some heft, Srulovich would “do something quite starchy – either potato or pasta”. And that’s the thing about beans, chickpeas and the like: they instantly make whatever you’re cooking more of a meal. “I guess pasta does the same thing,” Srulovich says, but it won’t account for the protein, “though maybe you’re not so forensic.” If, however, protein is of concern, Mitchell would lean towards tofu, chicken or eggs (depending on what you’re making, of course).
Falafel is harder to crack, unless you go completely off-piste – “They’re very much about the chickpeas,” Srulovich says – so it’s better to gravitate towards fritters. Again, Nicholson would make vegetables the hero here: “Anything grated or chopped,” she advises. “Broccoli is great in a fritter, as are cauliflower, carrot, swede, turnip, parsnip, jerusalem artichoke – although if pulses don’t agree with you, then maybe not the artichokes.”
Dips are smoother sailing, Srulovich says: “We slow cook pumpkin, puree it, add tahini – and honestly, it’s one of the most delicious things. It’s like peanut butter, but a million times better.” At Honey & Co Daily, you’ll find a wonderfully rich roast red pepper, pumpkin seed and tahini number, but, Srulovich explains, “the sky’s the limit, really”. Celeriac, potato, carrot, parsnip: “Just cook them, mash them, add tahini, lemon and garlic, and you’ll have a really tasty dip.”
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