I often find green cabbage boring. How can I make it more interesting?
The cabbage family is vast and, just like most families, its members differ hugely in shape and size, from long and pointed to rotund with solid hearts. What the green members all have in common, however, is their receptiveness to multiple situations, from braising to layering into lasagne, which is good news for those who think they’re a bit dull.
Merlin Labron-Johnson, chef/owner of Osip and The Old Pharmacy, both in Bruton, Somerset, is no such person, though: “Cabbages are much more versatile than people give them credit for,” he says, “but you do need to apply a bit of imagination.” That might mean blanching the leaves, stuffing them with sausagemeat – “sometimes, I add pistachios, too” – then rolling and braising in the oven. “That’s an interesting way to use up a savoy cabbage.” He suggests serving these cabbage parcels with some pumpkin puree. Alternatively, put hispi in a pot roast: halve the cabbage and lay it cut side down in a hot pan with lots of oil, to get some nice caramelisation. “Finish it in the oven, then carve and dress with chopped herbs, toasted nuts [almonds or hazelnuts, say] or pine nuts, perhaps a few raisins, and a bit of vinegar and olive oil.”
