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Times Life
Times Life
Lifestyle
Aishwarya Kapoor

What Maheshwari Fabric from Madhya Pradesh Reveals About the Layered History of Indian Textile Trade

The town that made cloth for queens

Maheshwar sits on the northern bank of the Narmada in Madhya Pradesh, and the river is not incidental to the fabric. The weavers, called Maheshwari weavers, from the Salvi community, worked within earshot of the water for centuries before Ahilyabai Holkar arrived and changed what the loom could mean. Ahilyabai, the 18th-century Maratha queen who governed Maheshwar as her capital from 1767, did not simply patronise weaving. She reorganised it. She brought in weavers from Surat and Mandu, introduced silk into a tradition that had worked primarily with cotton, and created a cloth that was explicitly designed to carry the weight of court life: a fabric fine enough to drape like water, sturdy enough to survive daily use, and distinctive enough that you would know, on sight, where it came from.

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