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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
World
Fred Harter in Kafa, Ethiopia

‘We would not survive without coffee’: how rules made in Europe put Ethiopian farmers at risk

A woman smiles as she gestures towards a metal tray of roasted coffee beans, which sit beside a selection of small pottery cups.
A roadside coffee stall in Kafa, southwest Ethiopia. All photographs by Fred Harter Photograph: Fred Harter

The first white flowers are starting to appear on the branches of Habtamu Wolde’s coffee bushes in the Kafa region of southwest Ethiopia. They will bloom several more times before turning into round red cherries ready for harvesting in October. Then they will be prepared for export and shipped to the capital.

“Our coffee is iconic, you cannot find a higher grade,” boasts Habtamu. Coffee is more than a drink in Kafa. This region claims to be the birthplace of Arabica coffee, which grows naturally in its temperate cloud forests. The plant is at the centre of daily life and the people’s main source of income.

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