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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Rachel Dixon

‘We were as stuffed as the dumplings’: a tour of Warsaw’s top vegan restaurants

Warsaw, Poland: Castle Square and the Royal Castle, Zamek Krolewski w Warszawie in the sunset of summer
Food for thought: ‘Warsaw has 34 vegan restaurants, rising to 80 if you include vegetarian restaurants with vegan options.’ Photograph: Krivinis/Getty Images

Pinny on, hands dusted with flour, I rolled out dough, cut it into circles, added a spoonful of filling and sealed it into little parcels. I was getting stuck into a dumpling cooking class in one of the most vegan-friendly cities in the world. Making gyoza in Tokyo, perhaps? Wontons in Singapore? Potstickers in Taipei?

In fact, I was preparing pierogi in Warsaw. Friends who associate Polish cuisine with stews and sausages were surprised to hear it, but vegan food has proliferated across the country over the past 20 years. Happy Cow, the veteran vegan restaurant guide, now consistently ranks Warsaw in its top cities globally – last year it was in 11th place, ahead of Bangkok, San Francisco and Copenhagen.

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