Air drying – the practice of prepping hair when it’s wet, then leaving it to do its own thing without a hairdryer or heated tools – is massive right now. Inspired by the trend for reducing damage, embracing natural texture and emulating the laid-back “French girl aesthetic”, hair products that give air drying a bunk up (like JVN’s mega hit Complete Air Dry Cream, from £10), are launching monthly.
Having spent an unprecedented five months trying to find some that deliver, I must preface any recommendations with the dispiriting realisation that my fine, lank hair simply will not look French, insouciant, pretty or cool when air dried, whatever I use. It needs heat to look good. But I have learned that best practice, not product, is paramount.
I must say first that your hair’s natural texture is everything. Air drying products work only with what you have naturally. No air drying potion will magic beachy waves from nowhere. If your hair is straight, it will mostly stay so, and it’s likely that it will dry nicely without heat only if it’s also thick. Any hair with natural waves, whether it’s fine or thick, will fare miles better and is more likely to dry into an intentional-looking shape.
Beyond that, good air drying really hinges on the observance of two steps: hair must be detangled with a suitable brush or comb while still wet – and I mean soaking (ideally while you’re still in the shower). Any brushing or combing thereafter will cause frizz and fluff.
Secondly, after you’ve applied the air drying cream, spray or lotion, and placed your hair approximately as you want it parted, twisted or arranged, you must not touch even a strand until it is totally dry. This is vital. Any fiddling (and the temptation to intervene as one approaches the worrying endpoint is real) makes for flat, shapeless hair that looks like you got caught in drizzle.
Air dry sprays such as Ouai’s Wave Spray (£24), used very sparingly, are best for fine hair, while moisturising creams like JVN’s, or Kristin Ess Weightless Shine (£8) are best for thicker and textured hair.
For me – and this is not for want of trying – air drying will remain confined to hot-weather holidays, where I don’t much care how I look and could never stand the heat of a hairdryer. But I will now be packing Bumble & Bumble’s Invisible Oil Primer (£27) since it air dries without frizz while simultaneously protecting against UV damage.
Photography assistant: Harry Brayne
