After last season’s show, marking 15 years at London Fashion week, in which he raided his own archive, Jonathan Anderson pondered where to go next. His answer for spring summer 24 was to explore and reinterpret the idea of everyday, daily pieces to seek, in his words, “a new type of modernity through experimentation, reduction.”
The opening looks were beguilingly cartoon-like, a play on character and proportion. The hooded tops and shorts which sat off the waist were moulded by hand from plasticine modelling clay, rendered in 3D. It afforded, he remarked after the show, “a new type of attitude in the walk. So the shorts went one direction, the top another.” The pieces looked solid and unwielding, but were actually “spongy, like a weird play dough.” A blended idea of “toughness” with “nativity”.
