Though Bocca di Lupo, one of London’s finest Italian restaurants, has long served trippa alla romana as a special, it is now to launch the tripe sandwich on a permanent basis.
In Rome, the sandwich comes out of Testaccio, the butcher’s district. It’s a working-class dish — cheap but delicious. To cook a good one requires a knowledge of food rather than the frivolous application of lofty ingredients.
