In cakes, I am relaxed about sugar and fat, as long as I don’t eat them every day. Even so, there are good cakes and there are bad ones. In my unscientific view, cakes made with ground nuts are always good – not only do they taste great, all moist and chewy, but they stay fresh for longer, too. This one uses unrefined brown sugar and spelt flour (though you could try other wheat varieties). The deep pistachio shade is stunning, as is the combination of white chocolate, cardamom and lemon.