This is inspired wholeheartedly by a dish I ate while cooking at the 45th birthday party of Nicos in Mexico City a few months ago. I love how many Mexican chefs are so enamoured of aspects of Spanish cooking, while still having a fierce pride in their own traditions and ingredients. Alfredo Villanueva, from Villa Torel, shared some of the secrets of this dish with me, which I have attempted to adapt for home cooking and the season. A veritable feast, and wonderful paired with a crisp, bitter-leaf salad.
