Captain Lasse docks our boat against a tiny yellow lichen-splattered islet, totally uninhabited apart from a wooden cabin. Clambering onto the grey rocks, my white-haired guide unloads a seafood feast onto a wooden ledge: teeny shrimps, peachy langoustine, orange crab legs, hönökaka (locally-baked cushiony flatbread) and two glasses of fizz.
“It’s paradise here,” he says, looking out into the expanse of twinkling blue sea. And he’s right.