For an island nation, Britain has a surprisingly limited appetite for what comes out of the sea. Salmon, cod, haddock, tuna and prawns dominate our shopping baskets, while dozens of perfectly good alternatives are largely ignored. Most of us can cook a salmon fillet without too much fuss. Cuttlefish, on the other hand, might require a brief consultation with Google.
Lately, even that familiar salmon fillet has become rather more complicated. Earlier this month, Chris Packham joined a campaign urging M&S to stop selling farmed Scottish salmon, raising concerns about sea lice, chemical treatments and animal welfare. The controversy has raised uncomfortable questions about where our seafood comes from and what happens to it before it reaches our plates.