Most of us know where we are with button mushrooms – they are inoffensive, bland and fairly sturdy. You can stick them in a stew or a tomato sauce, or fling them across the top of a pizza without worrying about how much cooking is required or how long they have been drying out in the fridge. But nobody gets excited about them.
“I haven’t cooked a button mushroom for a very long time,” says Jeremy Lee, chef proprietor at Quo Vadis and the author of Cooking: Simply and Well, For One or Many. “But they’re perfectly lovely – they’ll make you a decent omelette and they seem to be inextricably linked with the great British fry-up.”