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Bristol Post
Bristol Post
Entertainment
Becky Dickinson & Tristan Cork

The secret North Devon beach that's 'just like Thailand'

It's a day trip from Bristol - but you'll have to time it right: a secluded beach that's 'like Thailand', which only appears at low tide.

North Devon reporter Becky Dickinson discovered the hidden beach that's nestling between the busy resorts of Ilfracombe and Woolacombe, where even in the height of summer, it's possible to escape the madding crowds.

Lee Bay is five miles from Woolacombe and only three miles from Ilfracombe, but feels like a remote spot beneath the South West Coast Path, and is something of a hidden treasure, in more ways than one. "For a start," wrote Becky for Devon Live, "the beach only appears for a short time each day."

Read more: The beautiful Cotswolds 'hidden gem' just 40 minutes from Bristol

"Most of the time, the sand is swallowed by the sea," she said. "But at low tide, the water retreats to unveil a pale, sandy beach, surrounded by a necklace of rock pools.

"Although it's possible to walk to Lee Bay along the Coast Path from either Woolacombe or Ilfracombe, it's a fairly arduous route and most people choose to drive. There's also an infrequent bus service which goes right to the sea wall, which is great if you don't want to risk being unable to park," she added.

Anyone travelling to Lee by car is recommended to get there early - the tiny village has two car parks, one smaller than the first small one, and they fill up quickly. "It's best to park opposite the church in the centre of the village, then follow the footpath down to the sea. It's only a small car park so it's first come, first served," she said. "There's another car park closer to the sea, but with even fewer spaces. And you'll need some robust driving skills if you encounter something coming the other way and need to reverse (I didn't fancy my chances).

"There's something about the anticipation of walking down to the sea, that beats just rocking up in four wheels. When I visited during the heatwave, the short walk through the village was a blaze of colour. Known locally as 'Fuchsia Valley,' the hedgerows were dripping with red and purple flowers - not just fuchsias but honeysuckle, hydrangeas and buddleia too; all dancing with butterflies.

"I'd set off early in the morning to avoid the traffic and also to try and beat the incoming tide. On reaching the sea wall, the small bay was almost deserted except for a paddleboarder out on the water and a man meditating on the rocks.

"With green-capped cliffs, lapped by turquoise water, I could have been in Thailand, not down the road from Woolacombe. And as the sun beat down, it felt wild and tranquil all at the same time - and hypnotically beautiful. There was just enough beach to provide access on to some rocks. A slightly slippery scramble took me to a soft sandy cove just around the corner from the bay, not much bigger than the area within a goalpost.

"Of course, there's no such thing as a secret beach (not since Instagram anyway) just beaches that are harder to reach. But for a few minutes I'd found it: my own private patch of sand. And it was glorious. However, with the encroaching tide I decided I'd better leg it back before I got cut off and needed to swim (which would have been fine, except my phone might not have fared so well.) I made it just in time, albeit with soggy trainers.

"Safely back on the other side of the sea wall, the beach was soon submerged. Yet reluctant to tear myself away, I set out along the South West Coast Path, in search of even more elusive - if not entirely secret - beaches," she said.

This stretch of the North Devon coast is known for its high cliffs and tiny coves, which are often only accessible by foot. "After a sticky initial climb, the vegetation gave way to sweeping views. The path twisted ahead, separating green from blue, snaking along the clifftop like an adder through the undergrowth," she said.

"The exertion was rewarded by a blissful sense of isolation, almost like stepping into another world - one populated not by humans and beach umbrellas, but by birds and insects. And as an orange-billed oyster-catcher yelled noisily from the rocks, it was hard to imagine there could be thousands of people just around the headland.

"I walked for as long as seemed sensible in the heat, above hidden coves and secluded swimming spots. On my way back, I passed a sign that read 'steep path to Sandy Cove.' I'm not sure if it was meant as a warning, or an invitation, or both; either way I accepted the challenge. A slightly precarious wooden staircase built into the cliff took me down to another cove - one that might have been described as a secret beach, or perhaps just one that required a bit of legwork for anyone fortunate enough to be up to the task.

"Shining water stretched out towards the horizon, silver under the sun's glare. From here, it would have been perfect to paddleboard or kayak back to Lee Bay, but not having one handy, I took the rather sweatier option of returning by foot, back the way I'd come, along the South West Coast Path.

"By the time I arrived a handful of people had clustered around the car park and I was glad I'd arrived early and parked higher up. Part of what makes Lee Bay so special is that there's not much room for either cars or people, so if you're hoping to visit, it's best to arrive early and to check the tide times. Unless of course, you're planning to take the scenic route along the South West Coast Path. In which case, all you'll need is some decent footwear and plenty of water," she added.

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